---

TL;DR

The lob and the chiquita solve the same problem — you are pinned at the back and the opposing pair owns the net — but they solve it in opposite directions. The lob pushes opponents backwards. The chiquita pulls them downwards.

The decision comes down to one question: is the net pair’s weight forward or back?

• Weight forward, feet close to the net, hands high → chiquita
• Weight settled, standing off the net, ready to step back → lob
• Ball arriving above your waist → lob (a rising chiquita is a free smash for them)
• Ball dropping below your knee after the glass → chiquita (a lob from there is short and gets punished)

Most intermediate players default to the lob every time and lose the point on the third or fourth exchange. This guide gives you the read.

---

The problem this article solves

Every guide to the chiquita explains the technique: soft hands, short backswing, continental grip, ball at their feet. That part is well covered. What almost nobody covers is the layer above it — the decision.

You are at the back. The ball is coming. You have roughly 0.4 seconds. Lob or chiquita? Get the shot selection wrong and perfect technique loses the point anyway. A beautifully struck chiquita to a pair standing two metres off the net is a gift. A beautifully struck lob against a pair with a good bandeja is a slower way to lose the same point.

This is a decision framework, not a technique tutorial. It assumes you can already hit both shots reasonably. If you cannot, work through the technique first — the framework has nothing to act on until both options exist.

---

Why the two shots are opposites

	Lob	Chiquita
Direction of pressure	Vertical — pushes opponents back	Horizontal — pulls opponents down and in
What it exploits	Weak overheads, poor footwork backwards	Forward weight, high hands, tight net position
What it gives up if it fails	A bandeja or vibora, and you stay defending	A high volley into open court, point usually over
Time it buys you	2–3 seconds to reset position	Under a second — you must already be moving
Risk profile	Lower risk, slower payoff	Higher risk, faster payoff
Physical demand	Low	High — requires deep knee bend and precise timing

Note the asymmetry in the failure modes. A bad lob costs you the rally. A bad chiquita usually costs you the point. That difference should shape how often you reach for each one, and it explains why the lob deserves to be the default. The framework below is about identifying the moments when the default is wrong.

---

The six variables

Read these in order. The first two do most of the work.

1. Where is their weight?

This is the primary read, and it is visible before the ball reaches you.

Weight forward — toes loaded, hands up around chest height, standing within a metre of the net, leaning into the court. They are hunting a volley. They cannot drop their centre of gravity quickly. Chiquita.

Weight settled or back — heels down, standing near or behind the service line, split step already completed with a neutral base. They are covering the lob. Lob is now the wrong shot — but so is the chiquita, because they have room to step forward and volley comfortably. This is when you play a low cross-court drive or a deep flat ball to the corner and reset.

Watch their hands, not their feet. Hands above shoulder height means their body is committed forward, regardless of where their feet are.

2. How high is the ball at your contact point?

Above your waist: the chiquita is off the menu. To keep a chiquita low you have to hit down through the ball, and hitting down from waist height sends it into the net or, worse, sits it up at net height where anyone can put it away. Play the lob.

Between knee and waist: both shots are live. Move to variable 3.

Below the knee, after the glass: the chiquita is the higher-percentage option. A lob struck from below knee height rarely gets enough depth — it lands short around their service line, which is exactly where a bandeja lives.

3. Have you taken the ball before or after the glass?

After the back wall (salida de pared): you are stepping into the court with forward momentum and the ball is dropping. Ideal chiquita conditions, and your body is already travelling in the direction you want to go.

Direct, before the wall: you are usually moving backwards or laterally, off balance, with less time. Lob.

This variable alone explains why chiquitas hit off the glass work and chiquitas hit on the run do not.

4. Which side are you on?

Left side (backhand court, for a right-hander): the backhand chiquita cross-court into the opponent’s forehand-side feet is the highest-percentage version of the shot. The slice comes naturally off the backhand, the ball stays low, and the trajectory travels away from the middle where balls get intercepted.

Right side: your forehand chiquita is harder to keep low and easier to read, because the preparation differs more visibly from your lob preparation. Right-side players should lean more heavily on the lob and use the chiquita mostly down the line, into the tramline, where a mistake at least stays away from the middle.

5. What is the score?

The chiquita is a percentage shot with a punishing failure mode. That makes the score relevant in a way it is not for most shots.

• 0–30, 15–40, or any point you can afford to lose: good time to use it, and good time to show it to them so it exists in their heads later.
• 30–40, deuce, golden point: unless the read is unmistakable, play the lob. Lose the rally, not the game.
• You have just won two points in a row with lobs: now the chiquita is at its most valuable. They have started leaning back to cover the lob — which is the read from variable 1, engineered rather than waited for.

That last point is the one that separates tactical players from shot collectors. The chiquita is most effective as the second shot in a pattern, not as an isolated choice.

6. Are you and your partner moving together?

A successful chiquita forces a low volley. That low volley pops up. If nobody is moving forward to take it, you have done all the work and collected none of the reward — and you are now defending a mid-court ball from behind the service line, which is worse than where you started.

Rule: do not hit a chiquita unless your partner can see you hit it. If they are recovering from a wide ball or facing the back glass, the shot has no follow-up. Lob instead, and use the three seconds to re-form your line.

---

The traffic-light summary

Read	Call
Their weight forward + ball below your waist + ball off the glass + partner in position	🟢 Chiquita
Their weight forward + ball at waist height	🟡 Lob, then chiquita on the next comparable ball
Their weight settled, standing off the net	🟡 Neither — flat cross-court drive, reset the rally
Ball above waist, or you are on the run, or golden point	🔴 Lob

---

Four patterns worth stealing

The double lob into chiquita. Two lobs to the same corner. On the third comparable ball, they are anticipating and hanging back — chiquita into the space they have just vacated. This is the highest-percentage chiquita in club padel and it costs nothing to set up.

Chiquita to the outside foot. Aiming “at their feet” is imprecise. Aim at the foot furthest from the middle. A low volley taken on the outside foot cannot be redirected cross-court with any pace, which means the reply comes back into your court predictably and you can commit forward with confidence.

The chiquita exchange. Against a pair that also plays the shot well, chiquita rallies form at mid-court with all four players hovering around the service lines. Do not try to end this exchange with power. Whoever raises the ball first loses. The winning move is patience plus one disguised lob when their weight finally tips forward.

The chiquita you do not hit. Preparation for the chiquita and preparation for the lob should look identical — racket under the ball, open face, short backswing. If they look the same, your opponents cannot lean either way, and the lob you actually hit becomes more effective. Half the value of having a chiquita is the doubt it creates.

---

Where intermediate players lose points with this

Hitting the chiquita from too far back. From two metres behind the service line, the ball has too far to travel and rises over the net at a height any competent volleyer punishes. If you are deep in the corner, lob.

Using it as a defensive escape. The chiquita is an attacking shot played from a defensive position. Those are not the same thing. If you are stretched, off-balance, or late, it is not available — you are just hitting a short ball and hoping.

Not moving after it. The shot exists to create the opening. If your feet stay planted, you have created an opening for nobody.

Playing it against the wrong opponent. Against a pair with poor low volleys it wins points. Against a pair with soft hands and good knee bend, it just starts a chiquita exchange you may not want. Test it early in the match at a cheap score and find out which pair you are facing.

---

Two drills that build the decision, not just the shot

Most chiquita drills train the stroke in isolation, which is why players hit good chiquitas at the wrong moments. These train the read.

Drill 1 — The call drill (15 minutes). One player at the back, two at the net. Before each feed, the net players secretly choose a position: tight to the net, or a metre off it. The back player must hit the correct shot for what they see — chiquita against the tight position, lob against the deep one. Score only the decision, not the execution. Ten reps, count correct reads. Most players start around 5/10 and reach 8/10 within three sessions.

Drill 2 — The pattern drill (15 minutes). The back player must hit two lobs before they are allowed a chiquita, and the chiquita must be followed by both back players moving to the net. The point is played out from there. This trains the sequence and the follow-up together, which is where the actual points come from.

Both drills fit into the structure I use in the practice plan I give every new student — slot them into the tactical block rather than the technical one.

---

Does equipment matter here?

A little, and less than people want it to.

The chiquita rewards dwell time — the ball needs to sit on the face long enough for you to control the height. A softer core and a lower balance point make that easier, which is one of the reasons control-oriented setups suit players whose game runs through the back of the court. I covered how those specs map to playing style in the racket shape and balance guide, and grip stability in part one on overgrips.

But be clear about the ranking. Shot selection is worth more than technique here, and technique is worth more than equipment. Nobody has ever lost a chiquita point because of their core density.

[AFFILIATE BLOCK — soft-core / low-balance control rackets, framed as “setups for back-of-court players”. Keep it to two options and place it here, after the tactical value has been delivered — not above the fold.]

---

FAQ

When should you play a chiquita instead of a lob in padel? Play the chiquita when the opposing net players have their weight forward — tight to the net, hands high — and the ball reaches you below waist height, ideally after bouncing off the back glass. Play the lob when the ball is above your waist, when you are moving backwards, or when opponents are already positioned deep to cover the net.

Why does my chiquita keep getting volleyed away? Usually one of three causes: you are hitting it from too deep in the court, so the ball rises before it reaches the net; you are hitting it against opponents who are standing off the net and have time to step in; or your preparation telegraphs it, letting them start moving early.

Should you move to the net after a chiquita? Only when the chiquita has actually forced an upward volley, and only when your partner is positioned to move with you. Advancing behind every chiquita regardless of the reply costs more points than it wins at club level.

Is the chiquita a beginner shot? No. It requires deep knee bend, a controlled short swing, and a tactical read of opponent positioning under time pressure. Beginners are better served by developing a reliable deep lob, which solves the same problem with a far lower failure cost.

What is the difference between a chiquita and a drop shot? A drop shot aims to land the ball short and unreachable, trying to win the point outright. The chiquita is not trying to win the point — it aims at the net players’ feet to force a weak upward volley, creating the opening for the next shot.

Which side of the court is the chiquita easier from? The backhand side. The slice needed to keep the ball low comes more naturally off the backhand, and the preparation is harder for opponents to distinguish from a lob.

TL;DR

Shape controls where your sweet spot sits. Balance controls how heavy the head feels at contact. Core density controls how much the ball dwells on the face.

• Aggressive baseline (fondo): diamond or high-balance teardrop, 265–275 mm balance, EVA hard, 12K/18K carbon face.
• Net player / volleyer: round or low-balance teardrop, 255–262 mm balance, EVA soft to medium.
• All-court outdoor player: teardrop, 262–268 mm balance, EVA medium, fiberglass or 3K carbon face for impact tolerance.
• Player managing elbow pain: round, sub-260 mm balance, EVA soft, 355–365 g, plus a thicker grip build-up.

If your overgrip choice is sorted (Part 1), this is the next variable that actually changes your scoreline.

---

Before you read this

This guide assumes you already play doubles regularly, know where you stand on court, and can hit a bandeja without thinking about it. It is written for players choosing their second or third racket, not their first.

If you are earlier in the journey — still hiring rackets at the venue, still working out how court booking and levels work — start with this beginner’s guide to getting into padel in the UK. Play five to ten sessions on hire rackets first. Nothing in this article will help you until you have a repeatable swing to match equipment to.

---

Why grip came first, and shape comes second

In Part 1 I covered overgrips by playing style, and I put it first on purpose. A slipping grip destroys wrist stability, and an unstable wrist ruins the two shots that define intermediate padel: the bandeja and the salida de pared. No racket upgrade compensates for a hand that moves at contact.

Once the hand is locked in, the next variable is not brand and not price. It is the combination of three specs that manufacturers bury in the small print: shape, balance point, and core density.

---

The three specs that actually change your game

1. Shape — where the sweet spot lives

Shape	Sweet spot position	Best for	Cost
Round	Centre of the face	Control, defence, consistent volleys	Lowest raw power on the smash
Teardrop	Slightly above centre	All-court players, hybrid game	Compromise on both ends
Diamond	Upper third of the face	Finishing, vibora, flat smash	Punishing on off-centre hits

The practical consequence: a diamond racket makes your vibora bite harder because the sweet spot sits exactly where you contact the ball on a high shoulder-level strike. The same racket makes your low defensive block off the back wall feel dead, because that contact happens low and central — outside the sweet spot.

Ask yourself which of those two shots you play more often in a typical set. That is your shape.

2. Balance point — the number nobody publishes clearly

Balance is measured in millimetres from the butt cap. Padel rackets run roughly 255–275 mm.

Balance	Feel	Effect on your game
255–262 mm (low)	Head-light, whippy	Faster hands at the net, quicker reaction volleys, less power on the smash
262–268 mm (medium)	Neutral	Balanced compromise, most teardrops sit here
268–275 mm (high)	Head-heavy	More mass through the ball, heavier bandeja and smash, slower at the net

Here is the part most reviews skip: two rackets of identical weight can feel 40 g apart if their balance differs by 12 mm. If you have ever picked up a 365 g racket and thought “this feels like a club,” the weight was not the problem. The balance was.

3. Core density — dwell time and elbow load

Core	Feel at contact	Suits
EVA soft	Ball sinks in, longer dwell	Slower swings, control players, arm-sensitive players
EVA medium	Balanced response	Most intermediate players
EVA hard	Minimal deformation, instant rebound	Fast swing speeds, players who generate their own power

EVA hard only rewards you if your racket-head speed is high enough to compress it. Below that threshold it just transmits shock into your forearm and gives you nothing back. This is the single most common mis-buy I see at intermediate level: a player copies a professional’s spec sheet, gets a hard-core diamond, and loses three months of touch.

---

Matching the spec to your style

Aggressive baseline player

You defend deep, absorb the wall, and wait for the ball you can attack. Your points end with a flat smash or a vibora down the side wall.

• Shape: diamond, or teardrop with a high balance
• Balance: 265–275 mm
• Core: EVA hard, or medium if you play more than three times a week
• Face: 12K or 18K carbon for stiffness and directional stability
• Weight: 365–375 g

Trade-off you are accepting: your defensive game gets harder. Off-centre blocks off the back glass will feel harsh, and you will lose a fraction of a second at the net.

[AFFILIATE BLOCK — comparison table, 3 diamond rackets, with “Best for” column and Amazon UK + Padel Nuestro buttons]

Net player and volleyer

You take the net early, cut off angles, and finish with placement rather than pace. Your bread-and-butter shot is the low volley into the opponent’s feet.

• Shape: round, or teardrop with a low balance
• Balance: 255–262 mm
• Core: EVA soft to medium
• Face: 3K carbon or fiberglass for a softer, more forgiving response
• Weight: 355–365 g

The forgiving sweet spot matters more here than power. A volley that catches the frame at 262 mm balance still lands in court; the same contact on a 273 mm diamond pops up as a sitter.

All-court outdoor player

You play in wind, on damp glass, on courts with inconsistent bounce. Durability and forgiveness beat peak performance.

• Shape: teardrop
• Balance: 262–268 mm
• Core: EVA medium
• Face: fiberglass or 3K carbon — both absorb frame impacts better than high-modulus carbon
• Weight: 360–370 g

A note from repeated experience: high-carbon faces crack more readily on wall and floor scrapes than fiberglass does. If your racket regularly meets the back glass while you dig out a low ball, buy the cheaper face material on purpose.

Player managing elbow pain

If your forearm aches for two days after a match, this section overrides everything above.

• Shape: round
• Balance: below 260 mm
• Core: EVA soft
• Weight: 355–365 g
• Grip: build up thickness with a double overgrip — a larger grip diameter reduces the muscular effort needed to stabilise the handle

Combine this with the moisture-management approach from Part 1. A grip that rotates in a wet hand forces you to squeeze harder, and grip pressure is a direct driver of forearm load.

[AFFILIATE BLOCK — arm-friendly setups: soft-core round racket + vibration damper + thicker replacement grip, sold as a bundle recommendation]

---

The 20-minute test protocol

Spec sheets tell you nothing about how a racket behaves in your hand. If a venue or a friend lets you demo, run this. It takes one warm-up and gives you a real answer.

1. Ten bandejas, cross-court. You are testing balance. If the head lags behind your hand, the balance is too high for your swing speed.
2. Ten low volleys from the service line. You are testing shape and core. Count how many stay below net height. Round shapes and soft cores should give you eight or nine.
3. Ten defensive blocks off the back wall. You are testing sweet spot forgiveness. Note how many feel dead or jarring.
4. Five flat smashes. You are testing whether the core matches your swing speed. If the ball feels like it comes off a board with no dwell, the core is too hard for you.
5. Two minutes of fast hands at the net with a partner. You are testing manoeuvrability under time pressure. This is where head-heavy rackets expose themselves.

Score each block out of ten and compare rackets on the same day, in the same session. Comparing across weeks is worthless — your own form varies more than the equipment does.

---

Three mistakes I keep seeing at intermediate level

Buying the racket your favourite professional uses. Professional specs are built around a swing speed and a training volume you do not have. A tour-level diamond in a club player’s hand produces more mishits, not more winners.

Chasing weight instead of balance. Players add lead tape to the head “for power” and then wonder why their volleys collapse. Lead at 3 and 9 o’clock widens the sweet spot; lead at 12 o’clock raises balance and slows your hands. They are different interventions with different consequences.

Changing two variables at once. New racket and new grip in the same week means you learn nothing about either. Change one thing, play four sessions, then change the next.

---

Is upgrading worth it?

Worth it if: you play twice a week or more, you have a defined role in your pair, your current racket is more than two seasons old, or you have a specific shot that keeps breaking down.

Not worth it if: you play once a fortnight, you are still changing your grip technique, your positioning is the actual bottleneck, or you have not yet demoed anything.

The honest ranking of what improves an intermediate player’s results: positioning first, shot selection second, grip and comfort third, racket spec fourth. Equipment is real, but it is fourth.

---

FAQ

Does racket shape really change results at intermediate level? Yes, but less than positioning. Shape determines where your sweet spot sits, which decides whether your most-played shot is forgiving or punishing. A net player using a diamond racket will mishit low volleys they would have made with a round shape.

What balance point should an intermediate padel player use? Between 262 and 268 mm suits most intermediate players. Go below 262 mm if you play mainly at the net and want faster hands; go above 268 mm only if your swing speed is high enough to use the extra head mass.

Is a soft or hard core better for padel? Soft cores suit slower swing speeds, control players, and anyone with arm discomfort, because the ball dwells longer on the face. Hard cores only reward players who generate high racket-head speed; below that threshold they transmit shock without returning power.

Should I buy 18K carbon or fiberglass? Fiberglass and 3K carbon are more forgiving and more resistant to scrapes against the glass and floor, which matters for outdoor and all-court players. 18K carbon is stiffer and more directionally stable, which suits players who attack from the baseline and hit flat smashes.

How often should I replace a padel racket? For twice-weekly play, expect two seasons before the core loses noticeable response. Cracks in the face or a change in sound at contact are earlier signals than any calendar rule.

Does a thicker grip help with padel elbow? A larger grip diameter reduces the muscular effort needed to stabilise the handle, which lowers forearm load. Combine it with a soft core and a balance point under 260 mm, and pair it with a grip that manages sweat, since a slipping grip makes you squeeze harder.

• padel left side tactics

Most new players think learning padel is all about mastering strokes: the forehand, the backhand, and the spectacular smash. But if you watch intermediate or advanced matches, you will quickly notice something interesting: the player who hits the hardest is rarely the one who wins.

Padel is a game of chess played on turf. It is a sport of positioning, patience, and minimizing errors.

When a new student comes to me, I do not start by teaching them how to smash the ball out of the court. Instead, I give them this tactical practice plan. This guide will teach you how to think like a seasoned padel player from day one, helping you win matches against opponents who might possess faster shots but lack tactical discipline.

The Core Objective: Eradicate Unforced Errors

In tennis, you often win points by hitting clean winners. In padel, roughly 80% of points are lost through unforced errors rather than won by spectacular shots. Your primary tactical goal as a beginner is simple: make your opponents play one extra ball.

To build this habit, incorporate the “Three-Metre Rule” into your practice:

• When practicing rallies from the back of the court, aim for a target zone that is at least one to two metres away from the walls and the net.
• Do not try to paint the lines or hit the nick where the glass meets the fence.
• By giving yourself a safety margin, you drastically lower your error rate while keeping the ball deep enough to stress your opponents.

Tactical Drill 1: The Cross-Court Default

When you are unsure where to hit the ball, the correct answer in padel is almost always cross-court (diagonally).

• Why It Works: A diagonal shot travels over the lowest part of the net and offers the longest physical distance on the court. This gives you a massive margin for error. Furthermore, a cross-court shot naturally drives the ball into the opponent’s corners, making their return highly complex due to the glass.
• The Drill: Play a half-court practice match with a partner where both of you are restricted to playing strictly cross-court. If a ball lands down the line, the point is automatically lost. This builds the instinctual habit of looking for the diagonal opening.

Tactical Drill 2: Managing the Net Dynamic

The net is where you dictate the point, but many beginners panic when they get there. They either stand too close to the net (leaving themselves vulnerable to a simple lob) or too far back (allowing the ball to bounce at their feet).

• The Sweet Spot: The ideal volleying position is roughly two to three metres back from the net. This position allows you to comfortably cover low volleys while still giving you enough time to move backward if the opponent plays a lob.
• The Shadow Drill: Practice moving in unison with your partner. When your partner is pulled out wide to cover a ball, you must slide toward the center of the court to close the gap. Never leave the middle of the net open. Your movement should mirror your partner’s like two puppets connected by a string.

Tactical Drill 3: The Slow-Down Challenge

The fastest way to lose control of a padel match is to match the frantic pace of an aggressive opponent. When someone hits a hard ball at you, the natural reflex is to hit it back just as hard. This is exactly what they want.

• The Strategy: Learn to absorb power. When a fast ball comes toward you, loosen your grip slightly, shorten your swing, and use a soft block to drop the ball gently into the open spaces or safely back into the center of the court.
• The Drill: Have your partner hit hard, aggressive shots at you from the net. Your goal is not to hit a passing shot, but to return every single ball at a slow, looping pace. If you can successfully slow down five consecutive hard shots, you win the drill.

Summary for the Táctica Padel Mindset

Brute force will only get you so far in this sport. The moment you face players who know how to use the glass walls effectively, raw power becomes a liability.

Focus your practice sessions on depth, cross-court consistency, and smart positioning. Once you master the art of keeping the ball in play and forcing your opponents into uncomfortable positions, the wins will follow naturally. Stay patient, respect the geometry of the court, and let the walls do the work for you.

---

• padel left side tactics

When new players step onto a padel court, their immediate instinct is to play matches right away. While playing games is excellent for morale, it is an inefficient way to build actual skill. In a standard amateur match, you might only hit the ball once every few minutes, and rarely under controlled conditions.

To fast-track your development, I utilize a specific, drill-oriented practice plan with every new student. This blueprint isolates the most critical technical movements in padel, allowing you to get hundreds of quality repetitions in a fraction of the time.

If you want to bypass the messy beginner stage and develop a clean, intentional game, focus on these four core training pillars.

Pillar 1: The “Zero-Angle” Wall Drill (Solo Isolation)

Before you can master playing against an opponent, you must master the rebound. This drill can be done entirely on your own against any concrete or brick wall, or directly on an empty padel court using the glass.

• Objective: To automate the continental grip and build muscle memory for a compact swing.
• Execution: Stand approximately two to three meters away from the wall. Drop the ball and hit it gently against the wall so that it bounces once on the ground before returning to you.
• The Constraint: Do not allow your racket to go past your hip during the backswing. Focus entirely on hitting the ball out in front of your body.
• Volume: Complete 100 consecutive forehands and 100 consecutive backhands without losing control of the ball. If the ball gets away from you, reset the count.

Pillar 2: The Parallel Cooperative Rally (Consistency Over Power)

Padel is a game of errors; the duo that makes fewer unforced errors wins the match. This drill, performed with a partner, shifts your mindset from “winning the point” to “sustaining the point.”

• Objective: To develop directional control and depth.
• Execution: You and your partner stand diagonally opposite each other or straight down the line on one half of the court. Both players must stay behind the white baseline.
• The Constraint: Keep the ball below net height. You are not allowed to smash or hit lobs. The goal is to keep the ball deep, forcing your partner to handle low bounces near the back glass.
• Volume: Aim for a continuous 30-shot rally. If either player hits the net or sends the ball out of bounds, the drill restarts.

Pillar 3: The Lob and Transition Sequence (Defensive Mastery)

The transition from defense (the back of the court) to offense (the net) is where most beginner tactical errors occur. This drill teaches you how to create the opportunity to move forward.

• Objective: To master the height of the lob and synchronize movement with your partner.
• Execution: Player A starts at the net, and Player B starts at the baseline. Player A feeds an easy ball to Player B. Player B must execute a high, deep lob over Player A’s head.
• The Action: As soon as Player B sees the lob is successful, they must sprint forward to occupy the net position. Player A must run back, let the ball hit the glass, and play it from the back of the court.
• Volume: Run this cycle for 10 minutes, alternating roles so both players practice the defensive lob and the forward transition.

Pillar 4: The Net Blockade (Developing Soft Hands)

Volleys in padel are not meant to be high-speed tennis volleys. They are tactical blocks designed to keep your opponents pinned to the back of the court until they make a mistake.

• Objective: To eliminate the swing from your volleys and focus on weight transfer.
• Execution: Stand two meters away from the net. Have your partner feed you balls from the baseline at various heights.
• The Technique: Instead of swinging at the ball, focus on a “blocking” motion. For a forehand volley, step forward with your opposite foot (left foot for right-handed players) as you make contact. Let the weight of your body push the ball deep into the opponent’s court.
• Volume: Practice 50 forehand volleys and 50 backhand volleys, aiming specifically for the back corners of the opposite court.

The Golden Rules of This Practice Plan

To get the maximum benefit from these drills, keep these three coaching principles in mind:https://padel-sensation.com/padel-mastery-how-to-conquer-the-bandeja-and-shine-on-the-court/

1. Prioritize Depth Over Speed: A slow ball that lands deep in the opponent’s corner is infinitely more dangerous than a fast ball that lands near the middle of the court. Focus on distance, not velocity.
2. Move Your Feet Before You Swing: Beginners often reach for the ball with their arms while keeping their feet stationary. Always adjust your positioning with small, rapid steps so that you strike the ball at waist height.
3. Film Your Sessions: Set up your phone against the glass for just five minutes during your drills. Watching your own backswing and posture will reveal technical flaws faster than any verbal feedback.

---

padel left side tactics

For aggressive baseline players: Tourna Grip (original blue) provides maximum absorption during long rallies. The thicker feel also adds slight cushioning that reduces vibration on hard hits.

For net players and volleyers: Wilson Pro Overgrip combines moderate tackiness with quick-dry properties. The thinner profile maintains better feel for touch shots while preventing slip during quick exchanges.

For outdoor court players: Yonex Super Grap excels in variable conditions. The tacky surface handles both dry and humid days, and the durability is better than pure absorption grips when exposed to elements.

For players with extreme sweating: Double-wrap Tourna Mega Tac for maximum moisture control, or invest in a Hesacore replacement grip for long-term ventilation solution.

The Overgrip vs. Replacement Grip Decision

Many players ask whether they should replace the base grip or just add overgrips. For sweaty hands, I recommend this approach:

Keep your original replacement grip if it’s still in good condition. A quality base grip like [LINK OPPORTUNITY: premium padel equipment] provides the foundation for stability. Then, experiment with different overgrips to find what works for your sweat level.

Overgrips are cheaper and easier to change frequently, which is essential for moisture management. I typically go through an overgrip every 5-8 hours of play during summer, versus 40+ hours for the base grip.

The exception is if your racket came with a very thin or low-quality base grip. In that case, replacing it with a thicker, moisture-wicking base grip, then adding a thin overgrip creates the best combination of comfort and control.

Application Tips That Actually Matter

How you apply the grip affects performance almost as much as which grip you choose. Here’s what I’ve learned:

Stretch slightly as you wrap. This creates tension that prevents the grip from rotating or bunching during play. Not too tight (you’ll create ridges), but enough that the material lies flat.

Start from the bottom and overlap 2-3mm per wrap. This ensures even thickness and prevents gaps where moisture can pool. The overlap direction should match your dominant hand’s natural unwrapping motion during play.

Finish with electrical tape, not the adhesive strip. The included finishing tape often fails with heavy sweat. A single wrap of thin electrical tape provides more reliable security.

Replace before they feel slippery. Don’t wait until grip performance degrades noticeably. Absorptive grips especially lose effectiveness gradually, and you’ll adapt without realizing your control has diminished.